[Nikki]

Ok here are some I'm looking at, they're 323 but they're newer. What do you guys think?

1998 BMW 323is
$7500

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...000&cardist=53



1998 BMW 323is
$6500

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...000&cardist=42

[Dleo]

blue one looks super clean, mileage a bit too high for me tho.

[Nikki]

Originally Posted by Dleo

blue one looks super clean, mileage a bit too high for me tho.

HA, the seller removed the ad like 2 minutes after I posted it!!!!

[Dleo]

BTW, checkout craigslist in NY/NJ/CT/MA, you can usally find some great deals because its mostly private sellers, plus the site doesnt charge a fee to post a car for sale.

[Dleo]

Originally Posted by Nikki

HA, the seller removed the ad like 2 minutes after I posted it!!!!

I still have the window open in another browser, would you like the phone number listed?

[Nikki]

Originally Posted by Dleo

I still have the window open in another browser, would you like the phone number listed?

Nah they sold it

[herbz]

well as far as used bimmers go there are a few different good tips

-always, always, always look at the car and test drive it before you buy it. if there's any suspension rattling, transmission feels wierd (be very cautious with automatics... they break), steering is not right, stay away.

-RUST. old BM's always have rust. pay attention to sideskirts, the trunk area, get on your stomach and look under the car too. it's good to find an example from florida or california where it never snows. this shouldnt be a problem tho since you're in florida. up here in MA its a pain in the ass to find a used old BMW with no rust.

-take note of any scratches and dents cuz that usually tells how much the owner really cared about his car.

-look for cars that were owned by grandpa who used his car to go get groceries and drive around town. younger owners (younger than 30) tend to beat the shit out of their cars more often than older ones do.

-as far as mileage, it depends. if it was a younger owner who didn't really take care of his car you want one with less than 100,000 miles. if someone really take care of his car the BMW will last you forever. mine is an '86 (e30) with 330,000 miles. original M20 engine original tranny. i wouldn't reccomend going higher mileage but if the owner seemed really anal about his cars, higher mileage is not always a bad thing.

[Nikki]

Thanks for the craigslist idea. I found this one..it says it was imported from Germany by the first owner who was a friend of his and he is the second owner-- comments???


http://fortlauderdale.craigslist.org/car/289023648.html

[18LLC]

my friend will sell his 95 325i, white, m3 rims, bilstein suspension, gray interior, 5 speed, xenon projector light, cd changer, 130,000 miles e36. oregon license, located in CA.

[Nikki]

Originally Posted by 18LLC

my friend will sell his 95 325i, white, m3 rims, bilstein suspension, gray interior, 5 speed, xenon projector light, cd changer, 130,000 miles e36. oregon license, located in CA.

how much and how would it be inspected or transported?

[Nikki]

wow, found this one, looks nice and listed $1,000 under KBB price. Hmm, I wonder if something is wrong with it.

1998 BMW 323i
$7,495

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...000&cardist=16

[Dleo]

I personally would not buy a car with over 120k miles, only because that is a crucial point in engine life. Most cars need a major tuneup at that point AND need to stop being driven hard, so it would have to be real CHEAP from me to even think about a car with 130k+ miles. Keep an eye open, they are out there. Heres a few I found:

http://newyork.craigslist.org/brx/car/302174137.html

http://newyork.craigslist.org/que/car/302108507.html

http://newyork.craigslist.org/wch/car/301734608.html

http://newyork.craigslist.org/jsy/car/301737665.html

http://newyork.craigslist.org/jsy/car/298625669.html

[Caster]

Originally Posted by shimshimhada

Get a '95 M3, you wuss.

+1

[ALPINE6SPD]

Originally Posted by Nikki

wow, found this one, looks nice and listed $1,000 under KBB price. Hmm, I wonder if something is wrong with it.

1998 BMW 323i
$7,495

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...000&cardist=16

That one looks good I would offer 6500 and take 7000

[010101]

A high mileage e36 is definitely a bad way to go if you're on a tight budget. Parts are very expensive. Buy a Honda/Acura unless you are willing to spend more to get a lower mileage e36 or are ready to shell out big bucks when the VANOS system or something big fails.

[maq]

Seems most guys in this thread have no actual E36 owning experience.

- A legit 95 M3 cannot be bought for $4-6k. Even if you could, it most definitely needs $5000 in repair.

- E36s generally do not rust. Older bimmers do, but we are talking about pre-E34 here.

- Most people go for either the M50 (2.5L) or M52 (2.8L). These engines can last 200k or even more if taken care properly. Just do a compression test before buying.

- Cooling system is the most problemetic. It's almost guaranteed to break on every car, so buy one that had it done already. If correct oil has been used and was changed often, the VANOS should be not be a big problem.

I'd also recommend the ti. These cars are nimble and fun. You can't buy a RWD hatchback today even if you had $30k to spend. They are underpowered, but they are also light, easy to work on and get good MPG. The Sport and Club Sport models have reached cult car status, and can still be had for fairly cheap. Consider one.

A thorough inspection is very important, you will find most if not all problems right away. So if a car checks out, it's most likely to be fine for a long time. Read the E36 buying guide in the April 2005 issue of Bimmer magazine, it tells you all about how to buy a $5k E36.

[010101]

Originally Posted by maq

- Most people go for either the M50 (2.5L) or M52 (2.8L). These engines can last 200k or even more if taken care properly. Just do a compression test before buying.

- Cooling system is the most problemetic. It's almost guaranteed to break on every car, so buy one that had it done already. If correct oil has been used and was changed often, the VANOS should be not be a big problem.

I've owned a couple e36es. The one I had for the longest I had from new until it had around 175,000 miles on it. I agree with you about the cooling system problems. Mine broke a couple times. There were also various other things on the car that were plastic and would break. Most parts I needed were not cheap. I think a fog light that broke when I hit something on the freeway cost around $200.

The e36 is a great car, but it certainly isn't cheap if something big breaks. Personally I have never had VANOS fail, but I had a friend with the 3.2 liter engine that had that problem and I have read that it is not uncommon. I think it all depends what year and model you have. If I wanted a cheap commuter car I'd go for a Honda. Cheap parts and more reliable. Buying an old German car that has a lot of miles and will have a lot more put on it is fine, but not if you are trying to be economical.

[maq]

Originally Posted by 010101

I've owned a couple e36es. The one I had for the longest I had from new until it had around 175,000 miles on it. I agree with you about the cooling system problems. Mine broke a couple times. There were also various other things on the car that were plastic and would break. Most parts I needed were not cheap. I think a fog light that broke when I hit something on the freeway cost around $200.

The e36 is a great car, but it certainly isn't cheap if something big breaks. Personally I have never had VANOS fail, but I had a friend with the 3.2 liter engine that had that problem and I have read that it is not uncommon. I think it all depends what year and model you have. If I wanted a cheap commuter car I'd go for a Honda. Cheap parts and more reliable. Buying an old German car that has a lot of miles and will have a lot more put on it is fine, but not if you are trying to be economical.

The VANOS is more problematic on the S50/S52 than on the M50/52, but you are correct in that it's not an uncommon problem. The good thing is it's easy to detect, rough idle and marble in a can noise are the tell tale signs.

I don't know when did you own your E36s, but the non-M models parts aren't that expensive today if you buy them from the right sources. Most times it's the labor that runs the bill up. The E36 is a well studied chassis, with a good tool set, a Bentley manual and the internet, one can fix almost anything this side of an engine rebuild.

[darkcloud]

My buddy had a 94-96(exact year I can't remember) 318i and it ran pretty well up till about 150,000 miles. He started having a lot of petty issues. His cd player broke. Radio would continually malfunction. His alarm would start beeping all of a sudden while driving then stop. Windows would not roll down one day but work the next. He obviously had some major electrical malfunctions that you wouldn't typically expect. Up till that point it was a good car to ride around in. He lucked out though, he was getting ready to junk the car for $500-1k and someone hit him and totalled it. Insurance ended up giving him like 3k haha.

IMO you can prolly find something newer with a lot less miles and will be less a hassle. Maybe even something with a little bit of the warranty left. Or if you must stick with a BMW why not finance a certified used 3er around 10-15k? I understand that's out of the price range but you shouldn't have the worry about fixing anything during your time of ownership. I'm sure if you work with a dealer they'll be able to find something they would trust in your range. Buying cars privately is a huge PITA, you have no warranty, and can't return the car nor hold the seller liable for anything. Although if done correctly you can find some great deals if you take your time and have the car extensively checked.

PS. watch out for the adds that say, "Great car, runs strong, no engine" or "fresh paint, no accidents"