[IzzyGray]

Might be a longshot but since many of you fine gentlemen DIY, thought id ask. Today I attempted to swap garage lights and seem to be running into a slight issue.

Previous setup: 2 regular bulb outlets/sockets controlled by one switch. I removed these and there are 8 wires coming from the wall(supply) at each removed outlet, 2 reds, 2 whites, 2 blacks and 2 bare copper. The two red and white wires were connected to the bulb outlet/socket while the two blacks were tied to each other and the two bare copper were tied to each other.

New fixture: There are 4 wires coming from the fixture; red, white, black and green.

I connected the supply side wires(2) to the corresponding color from the fixture(1). So I end up 3 reds, 3 whites, 3 blacks and (green connected to 2 bare copper). Turned fuse back on and voila, it turns on. However the switch no longer controls the fixture. Instead it's always on. Ideas?

[Twix]

The black wires are for a different circuit by the sounds of things. remove them and cap them. Try things out again. you may need to use the fixture's black or red depending on what the wires in the fixture are for. Sometimes one is for a different voltage or for a dimmer. Also, absolutely make sure one of the bare conductors is physically around the metal box's grounding screw and snugged up. If that doesn't work, send me some pictures so I can have a better look. Being an electrician I can't really diagnose without seeing what's in the box.

[IzzyGray]

Checklist:

1- Yep bare copper is grounded correctly
2- I disconnected the black wire from fixture and left it disconnected while twisting the two supply side black wires together(like before) and lights do not turn on.
3- I don't think the red wire is for a dimmer since it's a shop light T5-HO 4' lights but I'll look at the diagram again.
4- What photo do you need specifically? I can quickly snap and post those up
5- Thanks for the assistance!

[Efthreeoh]

I suggest two things. Open the switch box and see what color wires are being switched. Secondly open the service panel and look at the wiring of the circuit and which color wires connect the powered bus bars the center bars (black and red -if used) and the ground bus bar on the outer sides of the box (white). A circuit with black, red, and white usually means it is a 240V circuit. It sounds like the circuit was originally 240V that was converted to 120V. US electrical code calls for a 120V circuit to use the black (power or phase), white (neutral), and bare (or green) as the case ground. The red usually supplies the other leg (phase) of 120 to make a 240V circuit.

Be careful.

[IzzyGray]

I solved the issue but tell me if this fix of mine is "safe" or "correct".

I opened the switch and saw that a red and black wire was connected to it. Since black is hot and constant, I deduced that the switch allows the black wire current to flow to red when it's on. So, since the previous bulb outlet only connected the red and white wires, the current must be switched via red wires. So I connected the supply side red wires with the fixture black wire and reattached the two supply side black wires like before. I also left the fixture side red wire disconnected. Switch works but would only light 2 middle lights(it's a 4 bulb fixture). So I decided to connect the fixture side red wire(that was disconnected) to the threesome(2 supply side red wires and fixture side black wire) and voila it works! Should I be concerned about anything?

[Efthreeoh]

I suggest for safety reasons you call an electrician.