[justjenn3]

Hi, I received lease pricing and wanted to get feedback if it’s a good deal? I am in NJ. It’s a 2025 530i x drive, MSRP is $69,745, selling price is $66,800, 10K miles, 39 mos lease term, money factor .0018, residual 57%, paying $4500 in taxes and fees on signing, it’s $885, 12K miles is $903. This also includes a corporate program from my company. If someone can let me know, I would appreciate it. I tried posting in leasehackr and someone said I should be getting 10% off msrp and then just got asked by brokers if i wanted other cars so it wasn’t helpful. I called another dealership and it was much higher. I checked with a broker and same deal is $819 but factor in his fee and it’s $837, but he can’t get the car I want, not now anyway and i’d rather use the dealership because my car is ordered and at the port. I took a screenshot if the dealerships screen and there is $1958 in add ons. Do i need to tell him to remove that? I don’t know what it is. Thanks!

[dubb13]

It doesn't sound to bad based on the current rate

[Mattl0806]

Originally Posted by justjenn3

Hi, I received lease pricing and wanted to get feedback if it’s a good deal? I am in NJ. It’s a 2025 530i x drive, MSRP is $69,745, selling price is $66,800, 10K miles, 39 mos lease term, money factor .0018, residual 57%, paying $4500 in taxes and fees on signing, it’s $885, 12K miles is $903. This also includes a corporate program from my company. If someone can let me know, I would appreciate it. I tried posting in leasehackr and someone said I should be getting 10% off msrp and then just got asked by brokers if i wanted other cars so it wasn’t helpful. I called another dealership and it was much higher. I checked with a broker and same deal is $819 but factor in his fee and it’s $837, but he can’t get the car I want, not now anyway and i’d rather use the dealership because my car is ordered and at the port. I took a screenshot if the dealerships screen and there is $1958 in add ons. Do i need to tell him to remove that? I don’t know what it is. Thanks!

This is a horrible deal.
What do you mean you posted in lease hacker and got offered other cars?
That’s not how you approach brokers. You should be inquiring directly with local northeast brokers. To name a few - Scott from insight autos. Dan from next level. Quentin at NYCLiFE. Auto lease ninjas. Auto companion.

You say hey I want a 530. Here are my must haves. Nice to haves etc. they should all have approximately the same discount but maybe different inventory. So in order to get closest to the spec you want I suggest asking a few of them. Unless you can afford to wait for a build. Then you can limit to one or two and see if someone has a sooner allocation etc .. / go with the best discount advertised.

But to pay 885 with 4500 out of pocket for 69k 530 is not good. I looked at a quick calculator and you should be 900 with absolutely 0 DAS, which is always advised for leasing cars. Which means you are overpaying by about 4000 - you’re welcome.

[justjenn3]

Originally Posted by Mattl0806

This is a horrible deal.
What do you mean you posted in lease hacker and got offered other cars?
That’s not how you approach brokers. You should be inquiring directly with local northeast brokers. To name a few - Scott from insight autos. Dan from next level. Quentin at NYCLiFE. Auto lease ninjas. Auto companion.

You say hey I want a 530. Here are my must haves. Nice to haves etc. they should all have approximately the same discount but maybe different inventory. So in order to get closest to the spec you want I suggest asking a few of them. Unless you can afford to wait for a build. Then you can limit to one or two and see if someone has a sooner allocation etc .. / go with the best discount advertised.

But to pay 885 with 4500 out of pocket for 69k 530 is not good. I looked at a quick calculator and you should be 900 with absolutely 0 DAS, which is always advised for leasing cars. Which means you are overpaying by about 4000 - you’re welcome.

Thanks! That’s all I wanted to know..if it’s bad where I should be. I don’t want a broker and wanted feedback so I can go back to the dealer to finish negotiating. Thanks again!

[Mattl0806]

Originally Posted by justjenn3

Thanks! That’s all I wanted to know..if it’s bad where I should be. I don’t want a broker and wanted feedback so I can go back to the dealer to finish negotiating. Thanks again!

The issue is in the metropolitan area, the dealers will not match the broker deals. They don’t have to. Enough non caring wealthy folks walking in paying msrp. The deal they have you looks exactly that. Msrp - rebates you qualify for. Maybe they took 1000-1500 off the car. I’d have to see the deal sheet and know what you qualify for to be sure.

Try to get them to meet somewhere in the middle. Where once you add in a broker fee maybe you’re not bothered by the 1500/2000 left on the table.

[CiprianS]

Originally Posted by justjenn3

Thanks! That’s all I wanted to know..if it’s bad where I should be. I don’t want a broker and wanted feedback so I can go back to the dealer to finish negotiating. Thanks again!

Mattl0806 told you everything that I would have told you, too. Now go and do your research. Unless you want what you were offered, which is horrible, in my opinion.

See what you can get from the brokers, factor in their fees, and then return to the dealer and negotiate.

[justjenn3]

Originally Posted by Mattl0806

The issue is in the metropolitan area, the dealers will not match the broker deals. They don’t have to. Enough non caring wealthy folks walking in paying msrp. The deal they have you looks exactly that. Msrp - rebates you qualify for. Maybe they took 1000-1500 off the car. I’d have to see the deal sheet and know what you qualify for to be sure.

Try to get them to meet somewhere in the middle. Where once you add in a broker fee maybe you’re not bothered by the 1500/2000 left on the table.

I am going back and asking for more to being it to around $830. There is an add on of $1958 and i am asking what that is. If he removes that, it would be where it should be.

[justjenn3]

Originally Posted by CiprianS

Mattl0806 told you everything that I would have told you, too. Now go and do your research. Unless you want what you were offered, which is horrible, in my opinion.

See what you can get from the brokers, factor in their fees, and then return to the dealer and negotiate.

Agreed. I have 1 broker quote at $819 a month not factoring in his fee. Waiting on 1 more. Then calling the dealership because we didn’t finish negotiating, he wanted to get the car allocated so I probably still have 2-3 weeks before it gets there. Just in time for year end.

[Mattl0806]

Originally Posted by justjenn3

Agreed. I have 1 broker quote at $819 a month not factoring in his fee. Waiting on 1 more. Then calling the dealership because we didn’t finish negotiating, he wanted to get the car allocated so I probably still have 2-3 weeks before it gets there. Just in time for year end.

Is the 819 also with 4500 down at signing?

[CiprianS]

Originally Posted by justjenn3

Agreed. I have 1 broker quote at $819 a month not factoring in his fee. Waiting on 1 more. Then calling the dealership because we didn’t finish negotiating, he wanted to get the car allocated so I probably still have 2-3 weeks before it gets there. Just in time for year end.

Don't fall for this dealer-registered trademark BS called monthly payments. Never enter this game called monthly payments with a dealer.

This is how I negotiate:

1. Dealer discounts
2. Additional manufacturer's incentives
3. Lease/Finance/Cash
4. Eventual trade-in

Don't go into the dealership; preferably, do it over email so that you don't get into their go-and-ask-the-manager game where they play with your nerves as time goes by, and you will accept more and more just to get out of there. When you are negotiating for a car that is on the lot, it will eat at least half of your day with this going back and forth to the manager BS when in fact, they go into the manager's office where they just tell jokes, and so on just to lose time and stretch your nerves.

Just my two cents.

[Mattl0806]

Originally Posted by CiprianS

Don't fall for this dealer-registered trademark BS called monthly payments. Never enter this game called monthly payments with a dealer.

This is how I negotiate:

1. Dealer discounts
2. Additional manufacturer's incentives
3. Lease/Finance/Cash
4. Eventual trade-in

Don't go into the dealership; preferably, do it over email so that you don't get into their go-and-ask-the-manager game where they play with your nerves as time goes by, and you will accept more and more just to get out of there. When you are negotiating for a car that is on the lot, it will eat at least half of your day with this going back and forth to the manager BS when in fact, they go into the manager's office where they just tell jokes, and so on just to lose time and stretch your nerves.

Just my two cents.

Yup in this particular case if I was avoiding the broker -

1) I’d know the incentives I qualify for (Edmund’s website) -
2) I’d know the lease program (Edmund’s forum of lease hacks broker sheets will give you there).

Then -

I’d email ever bmw dealer with a 530 in stock (verify this on bmw USA as dealer websites are often out dated or show cars that are customer ordered). Stating my deal requirements.

Hello,
I want to make a deal asap on stock #.
I will sign today if you meet the below.

10% pre-incentive dealer discount .
I qualify for xyz incentives
The resulting purchase price = $$
The deal must be done at buy rate.

I am sending this email to many around me with in stock 530s that meet my requirements. The first dealer to agree gets the deal.

Thank you!

[PeterC4]

57% residual? That is very good based on my market. The APR is 4.32% which isn't bad either. Knowing the APR and residual is important, so you don't get confused with downpayment options and absolute payment amounts.

As to the Capital Cost, you will have to scope that out based on your local market. Putting money down is just another way of paying, one way or another - some people do it just to keep the payments relatively lower. 10% Discount seems high to me, but that might be the going rate in the market.

As others have said, negotiate the capital cost and then negotiate the lease terms. But in today's market, 57% residual seems high (good). Obviously, you pay less the higher the residual.

[Mattl0806]

Originally Posted by PeterC4

57% residual? That is very good based on my market. The APR is 4.32% which isn't bad either. Knowing the APR and residual is important, so you don't get confused with downpayment options and absolute payment amounts.

As to the Capital Cost, you will have to scope that out based on your local market. Putting money down is just another way of paying, one way or another - some people do it just to keep the payments relatively lower. 10% Discount seems high to me, but that might be the going rate in the market.

As others have said, negotiate the capital cost and then negotiate the lease terms. But in today's market, 57% residual seems high (good). Obviously, you pay less the higher the residual.

The residual has nothing to do with the dealers contribution to the deal.

Bmw mothership sets monthly programs for leasing and financing that establish the residual value at each miles / year program. 36m / 10k / year has one residual - 36m / 15k / year has a less residual but they are set in stone by bmw and cannot be changed by dealer. Bmw mothership also sets the buy rate or base money factor. This is where a dealer can screw you. They are allowed to inflate the default buy rate (money factor) that bmw sets every month. This is important to verify in your deal. Ask them what’s the money factor. Compare it to the monthly program to ensure it’s not being marked up.

[PeterC4]

Originally Posted by Mattl0806

The residual has nothing to do with the dealers contribution to the deal.

Bmw mothership sets monthly programs for leasing and financing that establish the residual value at each miles / year program. 36m / 10k / year has one residual - 36m / 15k / year has a less residual but they are set in stone by bmw and cannot be changed by dealer. Bmw mothership also sets the buy rate or base money factor. This is where a dealer can screw you. They are allowed to inflate the default buy rate (money factor) that bmw sets every month. This is important to verify in your deal. Ask them what’s the money factor. Compare it to the monthly program to ensure it’s not being marked up.

Residual may not have anything to do with the dealer but it is a good comparator between brands and long-term loyal customers with a big purchase history can get some more favourable terms. I've done it.

Agreed, APR or money factor is important to keep straight. I find these terms are good to compare when shopping between OEMs.

[justjenn3]

Originally Posted by Mattl0806

Yup in this particular case if I was avoiding the broker -

1) I’d know the incentives I qualify for (Edmund’s website) -
2) I’d know the lease program (Edmund’s forum of lease hacks broker sheets will give you there).

Then -

I’d email ever bmw dealer with a 530 in stock (verify this on bmw USA as dealer websites are often out dated or show cars that are customer ordered). Stating my deal requirements.

Hello,
I want to make a deal asap on stock #.
I will sign today if you meet the below.

10% pre-incentive dealer discount .
I qualify for xyz incentives
The resulting purchase price = $$
The deal must be done at buy rate.

I am sending this email to many around me with in stock 530s that meet my requirements. The first dealer to agree gets the deal.

Thank you!

Thanks! This is very helpful!

[Mattl0806]

Originally Posted by PeterC4

Residual may not have anything to do with the dealer but it is a good comparator between brands and long-term loyal customers with a big purchase history can get some more favourable terms. I've done it.

Agreed, APR or money factor is important to keep straight. I find these terms are good to compare when shopping between OEMs.

Long term customers are not getting better residuals or MF from bmw. You cannot get better than the monthly programs. Would love to see examples or anyone else back that up. No offence, but This just sounds like ignorance around what a sales person was selling as a loyalty rebate..

Yes - you can use bmws programs to compare against another manufacturers.

If bmw has a more aggressive residual, while not jacking up the MF to offset this then at similar msrps they will lease better than another car with a lower residual program. (Holding rebates constant of course). There are 3 variables
1) residual
2) money factor
3) rebates

Technically a 4th which is not as deterministic
4) dealer discounts.


If you want to know if Audi or bmw leases better you look at 1/2/3 - assuming you can get the same dealer discounts. But some times that’s different too but less defined.

[PeterC4]

Originally Posted by Mattl0806

Long term customers are not getting better residuals or MF from bmw. You cannot get better than the monthly programs. Would love to see examples or anyone else back that up. No offence, but This just sounds like ignorance around what a sales person was selling as a loyalty rebate..
.

My experience was definitely not related to a loyalty rebate nor the dealer. But agreed that the majority of customers wouldn't have access to such an adjustment.

The thing that is out of sync now is the discounts and residuals in Canada. Residuals are hovering around 43-45% for a 550e and our implied interest rates are about 5.5%. CDN $ pricing no doubt plays a roll in all this. The discounts that seem to be available in the US don't seem to be available on the hybrids. The full EV's seem to be more negotiable. Wonder if any Canadian buyers have seen discounts in the range of 7% to 10%?

[Mattl0806]

[QUOTE=PeterC4;31668789]My experience was definitely not related to a loyalty rebate nor the dealer. But agreed that the majority of customers wouldn't have access to such an adjustment.

So you’re sticking to this claim ? I am sorry unless this is a CAD market thing, I just don’t believe it

[PeterC4]

You can PM if you wish. It was reduction in the yield on the lease on my current M550. It was not done with the dealer.

[Mattl0806]

Originally Posted by PeterC4

You can PM if you wish. It was reduction in the yield on the lease on my current M550. It was not done with the dealer.

Are you talking about MSDs? Multiple security deposits, which is a way you can reduce the MF.

[G30Nashville]

I would wait and see what the December programs are also. I am in a similar boat as my lease is up in 3 months for my 540i and I’m not sure what to do. Not a huge fan of the G60 styling but I would sign another lease for the right price…..however, anything over $800 would be tough for me if it’s a 530i.

[Roki_014]

Looks pretty bad
msrp $87,5k , 10k miles per year, 36 months , taxes are pretty similar as nj im in IL $3k downpayment that covered first month and fees, payment $918 per month, its i5 m60 so maybe cuz its electric its a little better