[Blue Sky]

Originally Posted by Th-bmw-eu

Bonjour, je viens de prendre livraison de mon i5 touring 40, malheureusement je n'ai pas pu prendre l'option harman cardon 🫣 Je cherche une solution simple juste pour ajouter des basses lorsque j'augmente un peu le volume J'ai lu qu'Alpine propose un subwoofer compatible avec l'i5 ? Quelqu'un a-t-il une opinion ? Facile à installer ? Merci
Alpine PWE-S8
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500PWES8/Alpine-PWE-S8.html

Translated above post:

Hello, I just took delivery of my i5 touring 40, unfortunately I couldn't take the harman cardon option 🫣 I'm looking for a simple solution just to add bass when I increase the volume a little I read that Alpine offers a subwoofer compatible with the i5? Does anyone have an opinion? Easy to install? Thanks
Alpine PWE-S8
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500PWE...ne-PWE-S8.html

[guod]

Originally Posted by aaexpert

yes, after the ice g60 is figured out, I will do the i5 next. I'll post here once i get it done and then make a new post to explain it all with options.

as others have said, if you need some cash for R&D for the i5 Bowers, let us know.

[CVi5]

Was wondering if there has been any progress on this?

[aaexpert]

every couple of weeks is more progress. Just finalized the purchase of a 2nd G60 I have to go get next weekend, so I will be able to focus more on the 1st one getting the audio upgrades.

[guod]

Originally Posted by aaexpert

every couple of weeks is more progress. Just finalized the purchase of a 2nd G60 I have to go get next weekend, so I will be able to focus more on the 1st one getting the audio upgrades.

Amazing. Ty for your services

[W2k]

Following this with great interest. I'm over in Europe, but I'm sure the speakers are wired the same.

[rhyno]

I posted in a similar thread on the i5talk forum and am very interested in options to improve the bass in my i5 M60 with the Bowers & Wilkins audio. I have quality concerns with both the stock subwoofer and the location where it is installed. I've only had the car for 3 days now and decided to tear into the trunk today to see what I can do in the short term until I can replace the sub. Here is what I found...

Subwoofer
This is a passive 8 inch sub with dual voice coil/4 wires. The quality is just OK. It gets distorted pretty quickly as volume is increased while playing anything with significant bass and the rattling going on in the trunk area is unacceptable. I tried removing the speaker from the enclosure to get a better look at it and how it is wired, but once the screws were out, there is some strong adhesive and I think I'd damage the speaker if I tried to separate it.

The sub assembly itself had a whistling noise coming through the holes pictured below. I could hear this noise in the trunk before I even removed the trim panels. This was "fixed" by putting some tape over the holes and didn't seem to affect performance. I guess these holes are ports, but the design is obviously bad given the whistling.



Location Issue:
The sub box is installed on the left side of the trunk, between the wheel well and tail light. There are multiple wires and plastic pieces in the area that all rattle like crazy. Most of these could be tacked down or improved with some Dynamat and felt tape. The deal breaker for me is that the bumper's side air vent is literally right next to where the subwoofer sits, and the vent fins all click and rattle constantly. I have no idea how to resolve that without pretty much sealing off the vent entirely.

I pulled the sub out of the wheel well area and set it down in the trunk and that fixed 90% of the rattling. Given the difficulty with rattle-proofing the original location, I decided to just relocate the subwoofer to the compartment under the trunk floor. I just had to add a couple feet of wire to get enough slack to put it in the new spot.



Ultimately I'm going to get a better passive sub box or install the powered Audison 10" sub and LCI unit that I pulled from my i4 M50. The relocation to the trunk cubby area will suffice for the time being.

[Blue Sky]

Thanks for the report. This is great, really a first look for most of us. If you have a picture of the sub mounted in the original location, please post, since most haven’t seen this or the issues with the location.

Keep us apprised of options and your results.

[Maltman]

Interesting project. 🧷

[NatJ101]

I have successfully completed a full integration for a subwoofer in my car, wired into the OEM harness with no issues!

Other than the cables to the subwoofer (and massive box) you’d have no idea it wasn’t OEM! Happy to share info and guides if needed!

I struggled fitting it initially, thought the rear speakers would be the bass speakers, but turns out they’re in with the front speakers!

[rhyno]

Originally Posted by NatJ101

I have successfully completed a full integration for a subwoofer in my car, wired into the OEM harness with no issues!

Other than the cables to the subwoofer (and massive box) you’d have no idea it wasn’t OEM! Happy to share info and guides if needed!

I struggled fitting it initially, thought the rear speakers would be the bass speakers, but turns out they’re in with the front speakers!

What all did you buy, specifically for your project? Could you post some pics?

[NatJ101]

Originally Posted by rhyno

What all did you buy, specifically for your project? Could you post some pics?

Edit…. I have a BMW I5 G60 with standard HK system!

I brought a ‘Halfords special’ EDGE subwoofer with integrated amp and a standard sub woofer wiring kit.

Wiring to the electrics can be a bit intricate so should only be attempted if you’re prepared and confident in your abilities!

My sub doesn’t work properly with the remote wire, I think this can be solved by installing a good line output converter - I just can’t justify the price currently though! I have managed to work around it to avoid the pops whenever the car powers up at night for charging!

In terms of power:

I have mine set up to power via terminal 30 in the rear fuse box to give a constant 12V, it has a in line fuse on the wiring kit (but you could add a line to a spare fuse slot on the box with a fuse holder if you fancy)

I then fitted a cheap remote switch, to turn on/off from amazon!

In terms of signal input:

The sub I used has L+R high level inputs so I could wire up direct to RAM.

I used the factory RAM because I have the above on the amp of the sub, so the power draw to the aftermarket amplifier should be able to be managed by the existing terminal without any dramas from overloading!

I linked mine to the factory RAM located in the rear left of the boot. I have a HK system in mine so no extra amp on the factory kit.

I de pinned and removed the wires from the harness for the left and right front bass speakers (see attached PIB) then added the following ELO terminals with cable into those slots. On the end of the cable I added a simple 3-way wago and added the factory bass speakers and the signal line for the amp. That way I can return it to the factory setup if I wish at a later date!

Be careful removing the pins from the plug housing! If you don’t have the tabs pushed down far enough they catch on the housing and jam in the slot (learnt this the hard way)! I would buy a A403*1B connector from eBay, which is what I did! That way if you get any jammed pins and ruin the housing digging it out, then you have a backup housing if needed! You can also use the wires from the connector (if included on connector from eBay) that way you don’t have to buy the ELO terminals and the wires will be the factory colors!

I have a full manual for installing/removing the RAM, so message me if required.

[Blue Sky]

Originally Posted by NatJ101

I have successfully completed a full integration for a subwoofer in my car, wired into the OEM harness with no issues!

Other than the cables to the subwoofer (and massive box) you’d have no idea it wasn’t OEM! Happy to share info and guides if needed!

I struggled fitting it initially, thought the rear speakers would be the bass speakers, but turns out they’re in with the front speakers!

What BMW model, which system (HK/B&W)?

[NatJ101]

Originally Posted by Blue Sky

What BMW model, which system (HK/B&W)?

Apologies, post edited! Happy to help with any more Q’s!

[deepgrey]

Originally Posted by NatJ101

Edit…. I have a BMW I5 G60 with standard HK system!

In terms of power:

I have mine set up to power via terminal 30 in the rear fuse box to give a constant 12V, it has a in line fuse on the wiring kit (but you could add a line to a spare fuse slot on the box with a fuse holder if you fancy)

How many amps is the 12v from terminal 30?

I'd like to see some more photos etc of your process. I assume if I don't have the HK it will be a bit different though.

[NatJ101]

Originally Posted by deepgrey

How many amps is the 12v from terminal 30?

I'd like to see some more photos etc of your process. I assume if I don't have the HK it will be a bit different though.

Terminal 30 is the main 12v supply to the car, some of the missing slots in my rear distribution box fuse box were totaling 120+ amps so depending on your installed equipment I wouldn’t imagine it causing many problems.

More information here

[NatJ101]

Originally Posted by deepgrey

How many amps is the 12v from terminal 30?

I'd like to see some more photos etc of your process. I assume if I don't have the HK it will be a bit different though.

The HK system as been replaced as the ‘low end’ equipment for the I5, the BW system is now in the HK’s old place as the ‘high end’ system.

[dick_holiday]

I’m adding the jbl 1000p with jbl 350 watt amp from crutchfield

[NatJ101]

Originally Posted by dick_holiday

I’m adding the jbl 1000p with jbl 350 watt amp from crutchfield

Nice! Good luck, let me know if you need a hand!

[rhyno]

Originally Posted by dick_holiday

I’m adding the jbl 1000p with jbl 350 watt amp from crutchfield

Please take some pics of the installation process and final results!