[sspade]

Originally Posted by xQx

Why is everyone spending hundreds of dollars on jack pads when a block of cut hardwood will do?

Because I couldn't bothered cutting some wood, I just spent $10 USD on four:

Quality made direct from ShenZhen

Same with the low profile jacks... If you've got $300 to spare, go and buy a nice long reach low profile trolly jack.

If you don't, grab a length of of 8"x1" timber, then cut & screw it into two lengths as a step arrangement like this:

-------------------
--------------------------------
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Then just drive the end of the car you're lifting onto your brand new 3" ramp and use your trusty old standard height standard depth trolly jack.

Do you have measurements for the blocks?

Please.

[xQx]

Originally Posted by sspade

Do you have measurements for the blocks?

Please.

25mmx55mmx12mm
(2.16"x0.98"x0.47")

[bmwv]

Originally Posted by Fakemike

I use Harbor Freight stuff and have never had a problem. I got their low profile steel jack for around $75 and it has worked very well (still not low enough to get under the front/center jack point without lifting the side).

The jack stands can be problematic because of BMW's jack points with the rectangle hole. You can find stands made for BMW that fit in there but can be pricey.

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=685917

I Just cut a block of wood to fit in the hole and use a regular stand. Others have come up with some creative modifications to stands. Have are some from a google image search:

i did the same but they crack sometimes. Probably not safe so friend cut the same from aluminum bar stock.

[roastbeef]

i'd say the more crap you put between the car and the jack stand, the more of a chance it has to slip. the jack pads are bolted to the car... then you have wood, then you have a jack. the car moves slightly when you jack it up. use pad style jack stands and be done with it. it is the safest and easiest.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

i'd say the more crap you put between the car and the jack stand, the more of a chance it has to slip. the jack pads are bolted to the car... then you have wood, then you have a jack. the car moves slightly when you jack it up. use pad style jack stands and be done with it. it is the safest and easiest.

Agree with this except the lifting blocks snap into the rocker panel, they do not bolt in. The blocks are designed to breakaway from the rocker panel if something hits them so as to not damage the chassis.

Again people, you don't need adapters, just use the correct equipment. Getting the ESCO stands with adapters is just plain dumb because (unless they come with the original flat tops as well) is basically buying a set of stands just for one specific model car. All BMWs do not use the E90-type lifting block; every BMW model uses a different lifting block style.

[roastbeef]

bolt in/snap in, you know... they're attached. lol

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by sspade

Do you have measurements for the blocks?

Please.

Originally Posted by xQx

25mmx55mmx12mm
(2.16"x0.98"x0.47")

I made my own adapters out of hockey pucks ($1.50 each). The rectangle part on mine are 57mm x 32mm. This lets them stick into the pad adapter without falling out like the others I've seen. I've accidentally left them in my car for a month and over 1000mi and they didn't fall out. I've used them on E70s, E90s, F3Xs, and F85.

[sspade]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

I made my own adapters out of hockey pucks ($1.50 each). The rectangle part on mine are 57mm x 32mm. This lets them stick into the pad adapter without falling out like the others I've seen. I've accidentally left them in my car for a month and over 1000mi and they didn't fall out. I've used them on E70s, E90s, F3Xs, and F85.

Sweet. Im going to use pucks too, instead of wood. What did you use to cut them?

[Never_Enough]

Originally Posted by sspade

Sweet. Im going to use pucks too, instead of wood. What did you use to cut them?

Just use a dremel or angle grinder w/cut off wheel.

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by sspade

Do you have measurements for the blocks?

Please.

Originally Posted by sspade

Sweet. Im going to use pucks too, instead of wood. What did you use to cut them?

You can use either a hacksaw or reciprocating saw. I measured out the dimensions I needed on masking tape, then stuck that on the puck, traced around it, and cut it out. I go a bit more than 1/2 deep into the puck.

It definitely helps to have a vise or clamps to keep the puck still on your work surface. Also, do it somewhere where you don't mind all the rubber dust getting all over. There will be LOTS of it.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

bolt in/snap in, you know... they're attached. lol

Details, details, details...

What must be funny is all the Posters that jack the car up, go over to the side and place an adapter on the jack stands, then go back and lower the jack just a little bit, then go BACK over to the jack stands and make sure everything is line up, THEN go back to the jack and lower the car is a bit again, THEN go back over to the jack stands and double make sure the adapters are going to fit up into the cavity in the lifting block and that the jack stand is placed correctly, THEN go back over to the jack and drop the car onto the stands HOPING everything line up properly.

or...

just get the correct equipment, lift the car, place the stands, drop the car onto the flat-top stands and move on with life.

LOL

[sgt3966]

Originally Posted by Wolf 335

Regarding the floor jack, I would recommend you get a low profile but long base.

This will make jacking up the front or rear center point a breeze.

Is there a "Center" jack point for the front and rear on a 2015 Z4?

[Wolf 335]

Originally Posted by sgt3966

Is there a "Center" jack point for the front and rear on a 2015 Z4?

To be honest I'm not quite sure when it comes to E89. Center point in the back is usually the differential or the frame cross bar.

What does your user manual say? All jacking points should be identified in there.

Further search: Post #1 and #11 https://e89.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1435362

[stevenc]

Dont underestimate a good set of ramps. When doing work the doesn't involve taking off the wheels, drive the car on to ramps rather than jack stands. Easier and safer.

[stevenc]

3 ton low profile Husky from home depot

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-...0120/206386467

[to_riffic]

The best out there. No way you can f'k this up.

http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/

[425M2]

These are helpful, "2 Pack Universal for BMW and Mini Square Polyurethane Jack Pad Adapter by TMB" and only $16.45 for a pair: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[overcoil]

Originally Posted by stevenc

3 ton low profile Husky from home depot

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-...0120/206386467

That looks just like the very good Arcan Jack sold at Costco, weighs about 80-pounds and is a beast.

[sspade]

Originally Posted by stevenc

Dont underestimate a good set of ramps. When doing work the doesn't involve taking off the wheels, drive the car on to ramps rather than jack stands. Easier and safer.

Very, very true. I use Rhino Ramps.

[withoutink]

Hi Guys,

I ended up buying a pair of Esco 10499 with the standard tops + a set of extra posts with the pivot blocks... from Reverse Logic

I am looking at the Arcan XL2T floor jack - https://www.amazon.com/Arcan-XL2T-Bl...dp/B007G83T16/

Thoughts on any others?

[overcoil]

Originally Posted by withoutink

Hi Guys,

I ended up buying a pair of Esco 10499 with the standard tops + a set of extra posts with the pivot blocks... from Reverse Logic

I am looking at the Arcan XL2T floor jack - https://www.amazon.com/Arcan-XL2T-Bl...dp/B007G83T16/

Thoughts on any others?

I wouldn't pay $300 for that jack. And not for a two-ton jack.

Arcan has a good 3-ton jack all steal about 80-pound, cost about $100 https://slickdeals.net/f/10631388-co...eel-jack-94-99. This jack is difficult to lift at 80 or so pounds, but I manage.

Know that an issue with garage jacks are that they can leak down, fluid blows by the seals. And these Arcan are probably Chinese made and the defect rate is probably too high to pay $300.

[Never_Enough]

Originally Posted by withoutink

Hi Guys,

I ended up buying a pair of Esco 10499 with the standard tops + a set of extra posts with the pivot blocks... from Reverse Logic

I am looking at the Arcan XL2T floor jack - https://www.amazon.com/Arcan-XL2T-Bl...dp/B007G83T16/

Thoughts on any others?

Just get the HF low profile jack, stop wasting $