11-19-2007, 04:19 PM | #1 |
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Ok guys....
....This Saturday came as a shock to me because
(drum roll) ...my girl bought me an '07 GSX-R. Yeah, I know! Great girl right? This was a complete surprise, so naturally, I was caught off guard and immensely unprepared. I need advice on riding gear. What should I be looking for when purchasing boots, a jacket, a helmet, etc.? Does a website exist in which I can read ratings on products? Any particular brands (..or item specifications.....i.e...leather vs textile) that I should steer clear of? Any advice from the resident riders would be extremely helpful. |
11-19-2007, 04:41 PM | #2 |
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my advice is to not cheapen on your helmet...and try each and everyone out there, I personally went with Scorpion Helmets.
As for jackets, I would go with a back, elbow and shoulder protection. Knuckle (kevlar or carbon) protection on your gloves. |
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11-19-2007, 06:40 PM | #3 |
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You should check out the new inflatable jackets/vests. Definite life saver.
http://www.airetronics.com/
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11-19-2007, 07:19 PM | #4 | |
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Thanks for the input guys. |
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11-27-2007, 12:11 PM | #5 |
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Get everything. If you go down, you will be happy you spent the money. I crashed at Hockenheimring last year wearing a Dainese one piece (Techno) with Kushitani HyperProgloves, an AGV TiTech Helmet, a Knox spine protector (would have really hurt my back without it), and Daytona EVO boots.
Everything together cost me around $2000. I got spit off the bike in a highside crash, landed on my head and slid for a ways on my shoulder and back. I was doing around 80 a the time of the crash. I walked away from it. Actually, I ran...picked up my bike and rode another two laps. The leather never wore all the way through, the gloves and boots were still usable. The helmet, well, it was crushed, but my head wasn't. The people at the hospital couldn't believe it. Remember this adage: There are two types of people who ride, those who have crashed and those who will crash. WEAR GEAR! IT WILL SAVE YOUR LIFE! |
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11-27-2007, 12:40 PM | #6 |
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Arai makes great helmets. Both strong and lightweight, helps for longer rides.
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11-27-2007, 01:06 PM | #7 |
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Thanks guys. So far I have sourced a Shoei RF-1000, an Alpinestars GP-Plus jacket, and a pair of Alpinestars GP-Plus gloves (..full gauntlet; last two fingers stitched together to guard against separation in the event of a fall). I also picked up a pair of Sidi Vertigo Air's. All that I have left to purchase now is a nice pair of leather pants and a back protector.
What frame sliders do you recommend? I'm on the fence between the Sato's and the Woodcrafts. |
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11-28-2007, 11:51 AM | #8 |
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If your jacket has a full circumference zipper, make sure to get pants that will use it. If you ever do get off and slide feet first or tumble, the jacket will ride up on your back exposing some pretty soft and vulnerable skin and organs. Also, I would go with a separate back protector that has shoulder straps and waist belt. Feels funny at first riding with it, but after a while, you will be uncomfortable without it.
Woodcraft frame sliders are usually pretty good. Good sturdy material and bolts that don't shear off. While you are pricing stuff, don't underestimate the value of a good roadrace school. No matter what your skill level or how long you have been riding, there is always something to learn. |
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11-28-2007, 01:45 PM | #9 | |
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Which roadrace school would you recommend in So.Cal? |
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11-28-2007, 10:54 PM | #10 | |
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Hmmm...I know there are a lot of schools in SoCal that have very good reviews. It is difficult to say because it depends on your riding skill and how comfortable you are with spirited riding. The Keith Code schools have always been very good. They concentrate on riding smoothness, keeping the pace rather than heavy braking and accelerating. They are expensive (especially if you use their bikes, which I would recommend), but well worth it. I have done the Honda and Yamaha race schools in the UK, both using their bikes. Very good courses. One of the big plusses is that you are on a track, so no need to worry about traffic and you can concentrate on riding skills alone. It is also not a track day, so no need to worry about people being competetive and, therefore, overly aggressive (beyond their skill level). DISCLAIMER: I do not own stock in any SoCal race schools |
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11-29-2007, 01:44 PM | #11 |
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Thanks for the advice man. I ordered the track pant today, and once I take the MSF course this weekend, I will consider a race school once I become a bit more comfortable on my bike. The Keith Code methodology is more my style. I'll have to do some research. Thanks again man!
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11-29-2007, 07:22 PM | #12 |
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I used to have '00 Yamaha R6 and then an '02 Yamaha R1.
Went through a few brands of helmets before realizing that I should have bought an Arai in the first place. Quiet, comfortable, liner doesn't lose its shape. Alpinstar boots, Hein Gericke suit that matched bike, decent armored gloves. I was very cocky went I first got my bike, rode like an ass in inappropriate clothing (jeans and a t-shirt). Over time as more and more friends took spills on bikes, I started to wear better protection. A friend had a very large amount of skin shaved off and had to have it scrubbed at the hospital and couldn't sit down properly for weeks. All because he wanted to pull a wheelie in shorts with no shirt while his friends and parents watched. Anyways, I hope you enjoy the bike and listen peoples advice about wearing the proper gear. And, no matter how hot it is outside still wear a proper outfit.
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11-29-2007, 09:00 PM | #13 | |
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11-29-2007, 09:45 PM | #14 | |
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Second you need to be really good on the break-in period. Dont rev it all all. Drive it like a old lady would if she had a bike. If not broken in correctly you will have major issues. Also be sure to get your first oil change asap. Bikes have alot of metal in the oil when going through the break-in period. As far as gear, dont buy HJC, or any cheap helmets. They are not good at all. Spend the extra money and at least get a 400$ plus helmet. Make sure you get a riding jacket with pads. Also buy some pants with pads as well, some companys have jeans built in with pads and look like normal jeans. Gloves are a must. Get ones with alot of hard padding, not the cheap golf like gloves that u could spit through. Make sure you never, and I mean never ride in shorts. Always ride with tough pants on like jeans, leathers, ect. I personaly hate leathers, but they skid the best and keep the wind out the best. Make sure you buy frame sliders asap. If you dont order them 15min after you read this, you are fu@cking up bad. They will save your bike like no other. Make sure when you first ride your bike that you warm-up the tires before you start driving the bike hard. Cold tires can be like driving on ice if you take high speed turns, get on the throttle, ect. Let your bike warm up to over 100 on the tack before you drive. Bikes need to be somewhat warm before you ride. Always where shoes. You would be shocked how many people is see with fing sandels on while riding. I feel like they should be kicked in the balls for doing something so stupid. By new tires as soon as you can, i like the pilot sports the best. They warm up quick. As soon as you can buy a stearing dampener get it. Head shake is a bitch. Even if your bike has a stock one, buy a GPR dampener cuz you can set the stiffness to what u like at all times. Make sure you get the feel for the bike before you let anyone ride on the back of it. Its 100 times different when you are riding with someone on the back. Never try to do anything stupid when someone is on the back as well, drive like a grandma. Also if you ride with a guy on the back you are gay. Dont do it. Man card can be taken away. Also teach your girl how to lean with you. If she stays stright and u lean when going into a turn, you will be fighting the current and it will make u stay stright. Tell her she has to trust u. Never drive in ran. Its not too bad driving in ran, but you have to worrie about cars. Be careful when useing the front brake. It has like 80% of your stopping power and if you have to stop quick and pull that thing hard, you are going for a ride. Try to rev high and down shift while useing the rear break as much as u can. If you have a slipper clutch its not as big as a problem, but if you downshift hard, because the bike is sooo lite, the rear wheel with not grab and spin. Make sure you never use the front break while turning, it will keep your bike stright and you wont make the turn. Break well before u turn, downshift and if you have to break more jab the front break before the turn quick, or feather the rear break while making sure not to lock it up. Always have a check list when you get off your bike in your head. So many new riders forget to put down the stand and drop there bikes. The first thing you should be thinking about when you turn off your bike is "stand". Be careful when parking on hills. Sometimes the bike will roll if not on even ground. Lastly be safe. Always check around you for other cars. Never ride without your helmet, try to stay off the freeways as much as possible, and try not to ride at night. If you have any other questions PM me, I have raced motocross, and ridden the street for along time. AND CONGRADS!! YOU WILL HAVE ALOT OF FUN. CARS WILL FEEL LIKE TURTLES NOW! |
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11-30-2007, 11:39 AM | #15 | ||||||
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Thanks bro. If I have any questions, I will definitely hit you up. For now, I only have a permit, so I do not ride at night or on freeways. |
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11-30-2007, 11:50 AM | #16 | |
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MSF should cover this but if they don't, learn to brake with your front brake almost exclusively. Oh, and you might want to pick up a beater bike to abuse while you are learning, you are going to drop your bike a few times. Or perhaps a set of race glass. A GSXR is really not a learning bike, not because it can't be ridden carefully, but because the plastic is expensive to fix! If you get more serious later, hit me up for some recs. I used to road race a GSXR-600 semi-professionally. |
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11-30-2007, 03:29 PM | #17 |
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[QUOTE=sdiver68;1755957]You are well on your way with all of the basics covered. Now, make sure you always wear your helmet, gloves, jacket, boots and long pants of some type every time you ride. You'll be tempted to get lazy.QUOTE]
+1, but you can get away with not wearing boots all the time. I like Nike SB's, they are tough, pretty much a skateboarding shoe. I just hate walking to a coffee shop looking like I got off the track. |
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11-30-2007, 03:48 PM | #18 |
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Be extra careful, use good common sense on the road and your golden. Don't be a squid.
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11-30-2007, 03:57 PM | #19 | |
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I thought the general rule was to use both brakes at all times (...of course taking into consideration the fact that most of the braking duties are handled via the front brakes). |
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11-30-2007, 06:51 PM | #20 | |
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[QUOTE=L~R~G nor cal;1757380]
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11-30-2007, 07:08 PM | #21 | |
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FWIW, I've been riding high performance bikes on back roads for 15+ years and ranked as high as 3rd in my Mid-West CCS Expert region. I almost never used the rear brake, except perhaps to hold the bike on a hill. Some racing pros use the rear brake for some very specific on-track situations...when you get near that level feel free to do whatever you feel is best and that may include expert modulation of the rear brake. OK, now I do remember using the rear brake once at the track. I was bumped off the track on the rear straight by a fellow competitor doing about 120mph and the grass was very wet. I used the rear to slow down enough get back on track and make the corner. Learn the right way now even if some well meaning but misguided MSF instructor teaches you rear wheel braking. If you can find a beater sport bike as I suggested and after you get some good seat time, I even would encourage you to practice locking up the front in an empty parking lot with wet pavement. Also, practice maximum braking in the dry using the front. As soon as you feel lockup (the whole front of the bike will start to tuck) release and reapply...think ABS. After long practice, you'll be able to feel the maximum braking point short of lock-up. |
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